No.3388 Cultural Industry Review
The blue word cultural industry reviews above the point pay attention to and star the standard.
China has great etiquette, so it is called summer; The beauty of the service seal is called China. From the color aesthetic orientation of traditional clothing in past dynasties, we can also see the cultural connotation of Chinese nation. The simplicity and naturalness of costumes in the Han dynasty were popular in Xuan, Chi, White and Green. In the Tang dynasty, the costumes were wrongly painted with gold, which was popular in crimson, crimson, bright yellow and turquoise; In Song Dynasty, the costumes were graceful and elegant, and were popular in light red, pearl white, light blue and light yellow. In the Yuan Dynasty, the costumes were golden and colorful, and they were popular in gold, Mongolian blue, grayish brown and green. Ming Dynasty costumes were luxurious and dignified, popular with scarlet, sapphire blue, grape purple and grass green; In the Qing Dynasty, the costumes were in full bloom, and apricot yellow, vermilion, azure and pale blue were popular. I can’t wait. Come and enjoy the popular colors of costumes in various dynasties with the writing! A big wave of beautiful costume pictures and color palette rushes to you!
author | Laishipu
read and edit | Min Lu (Assistant Research Fellow, Sanchuan Huiwen Tourism Research Institute)
edit | Chen Hongwei
source | Guochao Museum
The text is 6605 words | Estimated reading time is 17 minutes.
Chinese clothes are the epitome of Chinese civilization.
The color of traditional clothing is influenced by the theory of yin-yang and five elements, which can be divided into two parts.Blue, red, black, white and yellowFive colors. Different colors advocated by different dynasties reflect their dynasty characteristics.
The President selected the six most representative dynasties in ancient China:Han, Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, analyzed their popular clothing colors.
Let’s take a look at what these popular colors have with the introduction of the president ~
the Han Dynasty/the Han nationality/Chinese (language)/man
Features: simple and natural
Popular colors: Xuan, Red, White and Green.
In 206 BC, the Han Dynasty was founded.
Influenced by the Taoist technique of Huang Lao advocated in the early Han Dynasty and Confucianism advocated in the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty and later, the costumes of the Han Dynasty pursued the "essential beauty" of one integrated mass.
△ Eastern Han mural
The clothing colors in Han Dynasty are mainly monochrome and monochromatic, and they advocate dim colors, which are dignified, simple and natural.
Clothing in the Han Dynasty carries the idea of "rule by courtesy and orthodoxy", and the fabric dyeing follows the belief of Yin and Yang and the five elements, and it is noble in dark color and vulgar in light color.
Fashion colors in this period are dark black, red, green and white with low lightness.
△ Fuxi map in the tomb of Buqianqiu
black
After the Han dynasty destroyed Qin, according to the theory of five elements, it took the meaning that Qin destroyed Zhou and water overcame fire, and advocated water virtue.
Shuide is dark black. In the early Han Dynasty, dark black was the noblest color.
△ Han dynasty straight clothes
In the Book of Changes, the source of China culture, dark black was elevated to the status of "Heaven" and was the mother of all colors.
In Taoist thought, this theory was further developed:
Thousands of worlds originated from "Tao", and "Tao" showed the color of black, so the colorful of thousands of worlds grew out of black.
△ Eastern Han mural
Since the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, considering the five emperors in ancient times, the order of dynasty change was five elements, so the water virtue was changed to fire virtue, and the red color was taken as the top service.
Therefore, red became the most popular color in the Han Dynasty.
Therefore, the dresses of the Han Dynasty showed the characteristics of alternating red and mysterious.
Red also pinned the Han people’s desire for enlightenment and immortality.
The emperors of the Han Dynasty were keen to seek immortality, and imitating immortals with costumes was the most typical form of expression.
Immortal costumes pay equal attention to inflammation and red, and show awe-inspiring and inviolable momentum.
Nobles in the Han Dynasty like to wear red clothes, trying to imitate the charm of immortals.
△ Han dynasty skirt
white
In the Han Dynasty, white was a color that civilians could wear, and it was also the most commonly used color in clothing collocation.
It is natural, unpolished, with the most extreme simplicity and simplicity.
△ Han Xizai’s "Night Banquet Map" Part
White, as the most common popular color in the Han Dynasty, can best represent the ordinary people’s perception and understanding of life in the Han Dynasty.
It not only presents the beauty of the color of the costumes in the Han Dynasty, but also reveals the unique gentleness, gentleness, tolerance and atmosphere of the people in the Han Dynasty.
△ Han Dynasty winding clothes
green
Nearly half of the figures in Han Dynasty murals, both men and women, were dressed in green clothes, which reflected the popularity of green in Han Dynasty.
△ Han Dynasty murals
There is a poem in The Book of Songs, which says, "I am a green girl, and I am in my heart.". "Gnome" is the collar, and "green Gnome" refers to "the man in green clothes", which shows that the green shirt is the representative of a beautiful image in people’s minds.
△ Han Dynasty murals
In the Han Dynasty, the status of green is second only to red and mysterious, and it is also a color available to civilians, so it gradually became the popular color of clothing in the Han Dynasty.
In addition, green has a sense of peace visually, which is in line with the charm of "purity" and "inaction" advocated in the study of Huang Lao advocated by the Han Dynasty, and is also in line with the beauty of "golden mean" in Confucianism.
△ Han Dynasty clothes
Tang Dynasty
Features: wrongly painted gold
Popular colors: crimson, crimson, bright yellow and turquoise.
Tang Dynasty’s clothing style is luxurious and elegant, with bright and bright colors, delicate and complicated patterns, and they like to use bright and contrasting colors to match, which embodies the characteristics of the inclusive and open era in Tang Dynasty.
In the Tang Dynasty, scarlet, bright yellow, crimson purple and turquoise were the most popular clothing colors.
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture"
bright red
If the dynasty had color, Datang must be a delicate and charming color with red flowers and green willows.
Crimson is the most popular color in the Tang Dynasty, and it is often matched with the intermediate green, forming a huge contrast.
Women in this era pursue individuality, just as none of us want to bump shirts today.
△ Tang Zhangxuan’s "Mrs. Guo You Chuntu" part
Crimson color appears as the main color in the clothing of the Tang Dynasty, which is charming and dazzling. The warm color reflects the prosperity of the prosperous Tang Dynasty and is unforgettable at first sight.
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture" Part
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture" Part
dark reddish purple
Purple has always been the exclusive color of the nobility.
It is gorgeous, bright, pleasing to the eye, elegant and unconventional at the same time. It is loved by noble women in the Tang Dynasty and is often used in clothing collocation.
△ Princess Yongtai’s Tomb Mural
In the Tang Dynasty, crimson purple was often used to match with various colors.
In Zhou Fang’s "Picture of a Lady with Flowers", your daughter is dressed in a long red dress and covered with a purple-brown gauze blouse; It was draped in vermilion with a blue and white curly grass pattern. Purple shirt, red skirt and vermilion silk, balanced echo.
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture" Part
bright yellow
In chromatography, yellow has the highest brightness, which is the color of the sun as the basis of life. It is bright and popular for a while.
In women’s clothing, it is the main color, with red, pink white, dark green, sapphire blue and other colors as harmony, which has the beauty of grandeur and blooming flowers.
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture" Part
Pure and bright yellow is also respected by Buddhism, which is the sacred color of Buddhism. It is believed that it has the power to expel evil and is used by cassock.
In the period of Emperor Gaozong in the Tang Dynasty, it was considered that yellow was similar to the sun, and the sun was the symbol of the emperor. It was forbidden for officials and people to wear yellow, and ochre was designated as the special color for the emperor’s uniform.
dark green
Turquoise, as a popular color in clothing collocation in the Tang Dynasty, is often matched with scarlet, vermilion and white, and the colors contrast with each other and complement each other.
Turquoise, with its unique bright and fresh color expression, shows the vitality and vigor of the Tang Dynasty.
△ Tang Zhangxuan (biography) "Dao Lian Tu" (Song copy)
This three-color female figurine of Tang Dynasty, whose dress is mainly blue, green and yellow, is bright and natural in overall color.
△ Tang Sancai glazed pottery female figurines
the Song Dynasty; a surname
Features: graceful and elegant
Popular colors: light red, pearl white, light blue and light yellow.
The color characteristics of costumes in the Song Dynasty are simple and elegant, emphasizing the true colors and taking elegance as the priority.
The colors are on the high side, the purity is low, the application of contrast color is less, the colors are not as bright as before, and the color collocation is very harmonious.
Pale red, pearl white, light blue and light yellow are the favorite colors of Song people.
light red
In Song Dynasty, the concept of "keeping justice and eliminating human desires" was emphasized, which suppressed human personality and restricted the color of clothing to the extreme.
In Song Dynasty, the colors of costumes were formal and conservative, and the colors were elegant and quiet. Even when using the most gorgeous red, they often used light red.
Ouyang Jiong once described a woman wearing a pomegranate skirt in He Ming Dynasty, which shows the graceful beauty: recalling the first meeting between flowers, the tea is half covered, and the makeup face is lightly turned. Pomegranate nepotism, so the delicate jade fingers are secretly twisted, double phoenix gold thread.
Song people don’t pursue the colorful flowers in the Tang Dynasty, but like to pursue changes in the same color system, and they prefer the elegance of white.
Besides pure white, I also like moon white, blue white, pearl white and pink white.
As Ge Zhaoguang said: "The Zhao and Song Dynasties are like the moonlight that can’t reach the full moon on the eighth day of the seventh day."
White is pure and moist, like moonlight and Song Dynasty.
Song people pay attention to "inner saints" in their costumes, and see their thoughts in details.
Song Renzong often wears a white round neck robe when he is in court. But it is not pure white, and it uses the color of silk thread to weave different patterns, making white rich in layers.
People often use "rubbing blue shirts and apricot skirts" to describe the temperament of Ya Song.
At the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20th century, Margaret Lide of Britain also called China "a country wearing blue robes", which reminded people of the sentence in the Book of Songs that "blue will be adopted in the end".
These four words are so peaceful and simple, but they are flying like a clean and blue dream.
Light blue was very popular in the Song Dynasty, and it was the closest to a modest gentleman like jade. The natural beauty of simplicity, gentleness and idleness was rich and radiant.
Praise simplicity and elegance, and follow the path of all things.
△ "Song Renzong’s Back Sitting"
Song Taizu and Zhao Kuangyin planned the mutiny in Chen Qiao, added a yellow robe and founded the Northern Song Dynasty.
"Yellow robe" or "yellow dress" is regarded as a symbol of the emperor’s power, and the history and service of Song Dynasty stipulates that ochre yellow and light yellow are the emperor’s special clothing colors.
Light yellow is used in women’s clothing, which naturally brings a little pride and beauty of a good family.
In Li Qingzhao’s ci, girls who "stop swinging and adjust their delicate hands carelessly", "see guests coming in, socks slip away" and "lean back against the door and smell their plums" should wear such a light yellow dress.
Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368)
Features: Gold and color are in harmony.
Popular colors: gold, Mongolian blue, grayish brown and emerald green.
The Yuan Dynasty is the most special era in ancient Chinese costumes, because it was a political power established by nomadic people in the northern grassland.
In the use of color, the Yuan Dynasty advocated nature aesthetically, and the popular colors were mainly gold, Mongolian blue, grayish brown and emerald green.
In the 13th century, Genghis Khan led Mongolian fighters and swept Europe and Asia with thunderous momentum.
Mongolian plateau gathers jewelry from all directions, gathers talents from all directions, and collects Chinese and foreign technology. Mongolian costumes have begun a new era of luxury and richness.
"Old clothes are inlaid with precious stones and pierced with gold ornaments" (The History of World Conquerors: Feini Zhi), which is characterized by elegance and jewels.
△ Yuanzu hunting map
In the Yuan Dynasty, the dignitaries loved weaving brocade and advocated using gold in their clothes to show their wealth and status.
The north is cold and short of water, and the surrounding colors are monotonous. Only the golden color like the sun’s rays brings a glimmer of life to people living in the local area.
△ Nashi braided robe in the period of ilhan State
Blue, called "Huhe" in Mongolian, is the color representing the Mongolians.
In the minds of Mongolians, blue symbolizes eternity, faithfulness and loyalty.
Early Mongolians liked blue and white, which is why blue-and-white blue-and-white porcelain flourished in the Yuan Dynasty.
△ Yuan Yan weaves the mandala after the Emperor.
In the primitive beliefs of Mongolians, they worship nature and the blue sky.
They believe that blue represents natural scenery, mountains and rivers, and symbolizes prosperity, beauty and verve.
Dark blue is the main color of men’s Mongolian robes.
Light blue and light blue Mongolian robes will also become the first choice for women in summer.
The Yuan Dynasty was a political power established by nomadic people, and animal fur was often used in costumes, so the colors were mostly gray taupe.
In addition, due to the strict grade requirements for clothing colors in the Yuan Dynasty, people are forbidden to wear bright colors such as brown yellow, willow green, red and white flashing colors, cockscomb purple, gardenia red and carmine.
Forced to be helpless, the color of folk costumes can only develop to taupe. Common colors are silver brown, tea brown, lilac brown and so on.
Green is a very special color. It is neither cool nor warm, and it belongs to the middle color.
As a nomadic people, Mongolians live by water and grass, advocating nature and respecting grasslands. As the main color of grassland, green has a special position in the minds of Mongolian people.
Therefore, green often appears as the main color of Mongolian robes.
In a place with four distinct seasons, seeing green is like seeing a rich grassland, giving people a sense of security, calmness and comfort.
Green environment means plenty of food and water, so the love for green has always been in the blood of Mongolian people.
bright
Features: luxurious and dignified
Popular colors: red, sapphire blue, grape purple, grass green.
In the Ming Dynasty, the Confucian moral thought of "propriety, music, benevolence and righteousness" was advocated, and the five colors were combined with "benevolence, virtue and goodness" and set as positive colors, which was a symbol of inferiority and rank.
Red, sapphire blue, grape purple and grass green are the most popular colors in Ming Dynasty.
△ Drawing a police map in the Ming Dynasty (partially) originated from "A General History of Clothing in China"
Clothing in Ming Dynasty inherited from Zhou and Han Dynasties and inherited from Tang and Song Dynasties. It has distinctive Chinese cultural characteristics and is a model of Chinese clothing, which has a wide and far-reaching influence on the clothing and aesthetics of later generations and neighboring countries.
The overall characteristics of Ming dynasty costumes are: paying attention to color matching, luxurious and dignified style, and strong sense of color layering.
In the Ming dynasty, fire was the king of the world, and the color was still red. As a positive color, red had a lofty position.
Red is a warm, impulsive and powerful color with the lowest frequency, longer wavelength and good diffraction ability in the visible spectrum.
△ Ming Dynasty big red dark flower yarn embroidered Yunhe square robe
In the visual sense, red has a strong spatial penetration ability, which is more eye-catching, and its color is like blood, which will form a visual sense of approaching.
The widespread use of red in the royal family shows the supremacy of the feudal ruling class.
△ Ming Dynasty big red makeup yarn cloud shoulder sleeve flying fish pattern gown (partial)
In the Ming Dynasty, the colors of the royal and noble costumes were bright and luxurious, mainly with high saturation colors such as big red, gold, yellow and crow green.
Since the Ming Dynasty, big red, as a symbol of life, enthusiasm, nobility and celebration, also known as China Red, has really penetrated into the context of Chinese culture.
△ Ming Xie Huan "Apricot Garden Elegant Collection"
In the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the power of the ruling class was constantly weakened, people’s thoughts were gradually liberated, dyeing technology and dyes were developed unprecedentedly, and the colors of clothing were more gorgeous and bright, and there was a constant violation of color.
People began to use high-purity bright colors, among which blue with high saturation was particularly popular.
△ Ming Dynasty blue peony, miscellaneous treasure pattern, dark flower, silk weaving, gold makeup, Kirin filling women’s coat
In Chou Ying’s painting "The Map of Southern Metropolis" in the Ming Dynasty, scarlet and sapphire blue are the most conspicuous, and they set off each other and complement each other.
This painting also embodies the characteristics of colorful costumes in the middle and late Ming Dynasty.
△ Ming Chou Ying’s "Nandu Fanhui Volume"
The colors of folk costumes are mainly plain and elegant, and the colors commonly used by civilians are purple, green and light pink.
Purple is a combination of the coldest and warmest colors, which has a neutralization effect in clothing collocation. Therefore, purple is often the main color in civilian clothing, among which grape purple is the most popular.
In "A Beautiful Picture of a Thousand Years", the depiction of women’s clothing boldly adopts grape purple, lake green and other colors.
The strong color contrast highlights the strong "female consciousness" and the desire to break through the tradition and express themselves.
△ Ming Anonymous "The Beautiful Picture of a Thousand Years"
Green is a common color for civilians in all dynasties. With the development of spinning and dyeing technology, the saturation and brightness of green in Ming Dynasty costumes are higher, which makes them look fresh and bright.
In the Ming dynasty, dignitaries also liked to use cyan, green, red, black and gold as the main auxiliary colors.
Green with high saturation, as a popular color in Ming Dynasty, can best reflect the working people’s love for life and tenacious vitality in this period.
△ "Entering the Map" (partially) originated from "General History of China Clothing"
clean
Features: A hundred flowers blossom.
Popular colors: apricot yellow, vermilion, azure and pale blue.
The Qing Dynasty is an era with the greatest change in the history of Chinese clothing.
On the basis of retaining the traditional elements of the national costume, the costumes of the Qing Dynasty absorbed the elements of the Han nationality, forming a unique costume culture in the Qing Dynasty.
The popular colors of clothing in Qing Dynasty are apricot yellow, vermilion, azure and cyan.
In Chinese traditional culture, yellow, as a neutral color, is the first in Baise.
In Qing Dynasty, yellow was regarded as the sunshine color, which was bright and warm, and it was also considered as the golden color, which was both rare and precious.
△ During the Kangxi period, bright yellow satin embroidered colorful clouds, golden dragon mink inlaid with dragon skin and men’s robes.
Except bright yellow for emperors and queens, other yellows were widely used in Qing dynasty costumes.
△ During the Jiaqing period, a bright yellow gauze embroidered with colorful clouds, bats, gold dragons and women’s robes were placed in the court.
Different shades of yellow, or dignified, or delicate, or expensive, or lovely, are the warmest and brightest colors in Qing Dynasty costumes.
In the Qing dynasty, from the royal family to the common people, they all liked red and blue clothes the most.
True red is exclusive to emperors and queens, and other red colors are commonly used in clothing.
△ During the Jiaqing period, the red satin embroidered colorful clouds and the golden dragon pattern dyed the silver mouse leather-trimmed man with a robe.
In the costume culture of the Qing Dynasty, red represents happiness, solemnity, auspiciousness and happiness, and is also a symbol of identity.
△ During the Kangxi period, the red brocade was connected with the stone blue inch python, and the satin was clipped to the skirt.
Girls in the Qing Dynasty are happy in red.
Young women’s clothes are mostly pink and silvery red, while older women are happy with vermilion and scarlet.
Cyan is one of the important colors of Qing Dynasty costumes, which is between blue and green, and has the characteristics of crispness and cleverness.
The common color of civilian women’s clothing is cyan, and the color tone varies with age and occasion.
Cyan symbolizes solemnity, strength and hope.
Traditional cyan has a unique artistic charm, which includes pink cyan, holly, bean cyan, azure and so on. These colors are widely used in Qing Dynasty costumes.
In the world of color aesthetics in Qing dynasty, blue is especially simple and elegant.
Among the blues, the lighter blue is called stealing basket, the heavier blue is called prison, the heavier blue is cyan, and the deepest blue is ultramarine.
△ During the Qianlong period, sapphire blue satin embroidered colorful clouds and golden dragon pattern men wore robes.
"Stealing baskets" comes from the color of the autumn sky.
This color, neither strong nor light, is like a girl’s grief, and it is a common color in young women’s clothing.
China was called Huaxia in ancient times, and it was named after its gorgeous clothes.
Looking at the leopard in the tube, we can also see the clothing aesthetics of each dynasty from it.
Natural, gorgeous, elegant, and elegant ….. all have their own charms.
Clothing culture is like a rhythmic life. By understanding its beating, we can grasp the pulse of the times.
The costume color of the Chinese nation, like Chinese and Chinese characters, has always flowed in the blood of the Chinese people and become a part of the cultural genes of the Chinese nation.
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